Spello is a small,
charming and lovely little town of Roman origin. I love wandering
the cobbled streets and I’ve stayed here because I wanted
the peace of a small village, but proximity to many other towns.
The setting is amid orchards, vineyards and the Umbrian countryside
— evocative — memorable. The Chiesa di Santa Maria
Maggiore (12th century) is worth the stop because
of the frescoes by Pinturicchio (they depict the Annunciation,
the Nativity and more) you’ll find them in the Cappella
Baglioni. There are also frescoes by Perugino at the altar.
The Chiesa di Sant’Andrea (11th century)
has another fresco by Pinturicchio. Stop in at the Palazzo
dei Canonici/Pinacoteca where there’s a small picture
gallery. You’ll also enjoy the Villa Fidelia and gardens
to stroll. Don’t miss this special village. Wednesday
morning is market day.
Bevagna is also a very
special town….it has the qualities of a hilltown — yet
no hill. I found this a welcome change from climbing up everywhere
else! Bevagna lies on the Foligno plain near the Timia River.
The town’s origins are Umbrian-Etruscan. The town is walled,
ancient and charming…..The center of town is the small (and
lovely) Piazza Silvestri. Here you’ll see the slightly
"askew" Palazzo Dei Consoli (Gothic), the Colonna
Di St. Rocco (Roman) and a fountain that dates to the 19th
century. The Palazzo Dei Consoli houses the Teatro Francesco
Torti. Also in the Piazza Silvestri are the 12th
century Chiesa di St. Silvestro, the Romanesque Collegiata
Di St. Michele Arcangelo (also 12th century
— see the frieze above the portal - exceptional) and the
Chiesa Di Santi Domenico e Giacomo (built in the middle
ages — see the frescoes). In the upper part of town is the
Chiesa di S. Francesco which was built upon the ruins of
a Roman temple. In Piazza Garibaldi you’ll find the
remains of a Roman temple (2 AD!) and the Thermal Building
(yes, baths — ancient baths) houses a mosaic in black and
white depicting marine life and dates to 2 AD. The town hall
has an entire history of Bevagna including art, public records,
archaeology and a civic library.
Small and charming, Montefalco
(the falcon’s nest) sits in a dominating position
overlooking the Umbrian countryside — 360-degree views including
towns (near and far), vineyards, olive groves, mountains and rivers
(this is the Valle di Spoleto). It’s an ancient town of twisting
streets, tiled roofs, gates, walls, palazzi, churches and a fine
museum. It’s a town you walk "up"…..the Museo
Pinacoteca Di S. Francesco (church of the 14th
century) offers fine paintings from the 13th to the
17th centuries and frescoes depicting the life of St.
Francis by Benozzo Gozzoli…..and I usually make this museum
my focus and first stop (the town will certainly draw you in)….you
enter through one of 4 gates to the historic center: Porta S.
Agostino, Porta Della Rocca (ruins), Porta Camiano and Porta Federico
II (near the Chiesa Di S. Bartolomeo). This Romanesque
church (Bartolomeo) dates to the 11th century.
The center of town is the Piazza Del Commune. Here you’ll
find churches, palazzi and civic buildings including the Palazzo
Communale with its 15th century balcony —
head to the Torre/tower for views (it’s a climb) —
and a wine bar or two. The Chiesa Di S. Agostino (13th
century) has frescoes by painters of the Umbrian-Sienese school
(Lorenzetti, Caporali, Melanzio, Perugino, Alunno and others).
Other churches of note are the Chiesa Di S. Maria Maddalena
(13th century) where you’ll find frescoes dating
to the 15th century painted by local artists; the Chiesa
Di S. Chiara has a chapel/Cappella Di S. Croce where
you’ll find frescoes (14th century) by painters
from the Umbrian school; the Chiesa Di S. Leonardo has
a 16th century painting of the Madonna and Child by
Melanzio; and the 12th century Chiesa Di S. Lucia
in the oldest part of the village is a small gem. Market day
is Monday in Montefalco.