Tuscany: Florence

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You could spend a year in Firenze and never see all of this amazingly beautiful city…..I do so love Firenze/Florence! Florence the Cradle of the Renaissance — Florence La Bella — Florence the Unforgettable….this is a city you must devote a few days to just to scratch the surface. Florence sits on the banks of the Arno River in the romantically beautiful countryside called
Toscana/Tuscany. It was between the 13^th and 16^th centuries that Florence became the "mecca" for artists, scholars and architects. These artisans were "adopted" by wealthy patrons and were allowed to create and fill the city with some of the most precious works of art ever known. This is why you are here….Florence is a very easy city to navigate and I do it all on foot (the bus system is good however). My first stop is usually the Piazza del Duomo and the pink, white and green marble façade of the 13^th century duomo (Chiesa Santa Maria del Fiore). Topped by a fabulous orange tiled dome (by Brunelleschi), this is the town landmark and the 4^th largest cathedral in Europe. The interior of the duomo is startling at first, you enter and it seems so vast and "empty" — compared with the outside of the church. As you move in and up to the altar you see the beauty of the dome and its frescoes (The Last Judgement by Vasari). To get a closer look you can climb up to the dome (it is a climb) — the entry is just left of the altar. The views from the top give you an exciting take on this city. The delicately slender 14^th century campanile/bell tower was designed by Giotto and is the perfect match to the grand duomo. You can climb this tower for fabulous views (and a workout). The octagonal, green and white marble Baptistry/Battistero was built in the 5^th century and beyond (one of the oldest buildings in town). The doors on the east side (facing the duomo) are called the Gates of Paradise (Michelangelo called them this first — it stuck) and are by Ghiberti (these doors are copies, the originals are in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo). The doors depict scenes from the Old Testament. Just behind the duomo is the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Inside you’ll find treasures from the duomo, campanile and battistero. Next head up either one of the streets toward the Piazza della Signoria. In this beautiful square you will find cafes, the Palazzo Vecchio, the Loggia della Signoria/Loggia dei Lanzi, the copy of Michelangelo’s David, the Fontana di Nettuno/Neptune’s Fountain. The Palazzo Vecchio/old palace (13^th century) with its Torre d’Arnolfo was the town hall and a private residence. Today, just inside the entry is a lovely courtyard and fountain. Upstairs there are apartments with fine frescoes, paintings and décor. The Loggia della Signoria/Loggia dei Lanzi (14^th century) features Roman and Renaissance statues. The Fontana di Nettuno (16^th century) honors naval victories. Just beyond the Loggia is the magnificent Uffizi Museum. The Uffizi is a wonderful museum — one of the very best in the world. Here you will see the art of the Italian Renaissance. You’ll see art from all over the world and from every period too. Here are a few masterpieces to look out for: The Annunciation/Martini; Virgin and Child with Angels and Saints/Giotto; Battle of San Romano/Lippi; Madonna and Child with Saints/Lorenzetti; Adoration of the Magi/da Fabiano; Annunciation/da Vinci; Birth of Venus/Botticelli; Primavera/Botticelli; Tondo Doni/Michelangelo; Holy Family with St. Barbara/Veronese; Bacchus/Caravaggio; Leo X/Raphael; Madonna del Cardellino/Raphael….and more and more and more……one visit is not enough. As you leave the Uffizi and head toward the Arno (go right when you see the Arno), you’ll cross the Ponte Vecchio/old bridge. Today, as always, it is lined with gold and silver jewelry shops. There are great views from either side and a nice view of the top of the duomo from the center of the bridge. Continue across the bridge (and straight) to the immense and cold looking Palazzo Pitti/Pitti Palace (15^th century). Here you have the Galleria Palatina, a painting gallery with works by Raphael, Titian, Fra Bartolomeo, Andrea del Sarto, Tintoretto, Botticelli and others. This too, is a fabulous museum. Just beyond the entry are the lovely Boboli Gardens/Giardino di Boboli. Statues, paths, stairs, gardens, ponds and at the very top are great views and a small china museum. The Chiesa di Santa Spirito is a 15^th century church with fine art inside (Madonna and Saints/Lippi) and cloisters. The piazza (di Santa Spirito) is a great place to take a break (cafes). Santa Croce is a Gothic church on an ancient square (Piazza di Santa Croce). The façade is pretty in pink, green and white marble. Inside are the tombs of Michelangelo, Galileo, Macchiavelli, Rossini, Cherubini, Bruni and others. There are fine paintings and frescoes by Giotto and Gaddi (take change so you can light them — put coins in the machine and the lights come on). The Cappella de’ Pazzi was designed by Brunelleschi. The Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce has a 13^th century Crucifixion by Cimabue. The Bargello is another great museum (often overlooked on a first trip). If you like sculpture — this museum has a fine collection. The Basilica di San Lorenzo (15^th century) was the Medici family’s church (they’re buried here). It’s a beautiful Renaissance church (albeit with an unfinished façade) with two pulpits by Donatello (in bronze), a fresco by Bronzino and a cloister garden. The Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana houses the Medici library and collection of manuscripts. The Cappelle Medicee and Cappella dei Principi are worth a visit (tombs, jeweled decorations and the Sagrestia Nuova/New Sacristy (Michelangelo’s first work). **For a rare (and emotional) treat call and make an appointment to see the Sotterraneo (0552388602) located under the Sagrestia Nuova. Inside you'll find drawings by Michelangelo. He did them when he was in hiding from the Medici - it's like a cave and his drawings cover the cave. If you come here and you've not called in advance, ask when the next viewing will be - the viewings are timed. You cannot believe how utterly emotional you'll feel after seeing Michelangelo's thoughts and drawings at that time. Mercato Centrale is a huge food market selling all kinds of fresh foods (go in, walk around — buy — eat!). The Chiesa di Santa Maria Novella is a 13^th century church with frescoes (Trinity/Masaccio), a crucifix by Brunelleschi, cloisters (more frescoes) and the Cappellone degli Spagnoli (frescoes). The Galleria dell’Accademia is where you’ll find Michelangelo’s David. The setting is marvelous — you’ll be awed for sure — this is a wonderful work. Many go to the Accademia, see David and leave (and, if you’re short on time — do that), but on the next visit, know that there is a wonderful picture gallery here too. The Palazzo Medici-Ricciardi is a Renaissance palace of the 14^th and 15^th centuries. The rooms are lush and the chapel has some fine frescoes (of the Medicis). The Museo Archeologico has a fine collection of Etruscan, Greek, Roman and Egyptian artifacts. The Chiesa di Orsanmichele (once a grain market) became a church in the 14^th century and has an interesting façade with statues of saints and inside a tabernacle by Orcagna. Palazzo Strozzi is a 15^th century palace (built with huge blocks like the Pitti Palace). There is a small museum here that chronicles the history of the palace. Palazzo Rucellai is a 15^th century palace that now houses the Museo Alinari (photography). The Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine is known for the Cappella Brancacci. In the chapel are frescoes depicting the life of St. Peter.

As I leave (and sometimes as I enter) Florence I stop at the top of the town and Piazzale Michelangelo. Whether this is your first or last look at Florence/Firenze — it’s a great view over the city — evocative - memorable. Up here there are artists and souvenir stalls. The best time to come is early or late in the day……

*Want to reserve tickets to some museums in advance (Uffizi, Accademia, Bargello, Capelle Medicee and Palatina among others)? Avoid the lines and reserve via this website:

http://www.qksrv.net/click-1173895-8762555