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Tuscany: Cortona


Cortona
is an absolute delight. Obviously after Under the Tuscan
Sun (a great read) and Bella Tuscany (another great
read) the town became a bit more of a tourist destination
.Frances
Mayes painted a magical picture and shes the reason I
visited the town in the first place
..The town sits on
a hillside covered with olive trees and the views from here
to Lake Trasimeno (yes, that far) are wonderful. Cortona is
an Etruscan town and very well worth an overnight. Piazza
Garibaldi
is where I usually start (theres parking
here) and I just like to absorb the view from here. I then head
up the street (Via Nazionale) to the main squares in town which
are the Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza Signorelli
(they connect). Youll find the Palazzo Communale
(crenellations and all) and the Palazzo Pretorio/Casanova
Palace (13th century) decorated with coats of
arms. Step in to the courtyard and go up the stairs and you
can visit the Museo dellAccademia Etrusca.
This is an easy museum to tour and there are Etruscan artifacts
as well as paintings and special exhibitions. The duomo
is Romanesque has some interesting paintings. The Museo Diocesano
is a small museum just across the street from the duomo located
in a former church (Gesu) and is a definite must see. Inside
there are fabulous paintings by Fra Angelico, Lorenzetti, Crespi,
Signorelli and others. The Chiesa di San Domenico has
a painting by Signorelli (Madonna with Angels and Saints), a
fresco by Fra Angelico and a triptych by Lorenzo di Niccolo
(at the altar). If you have the energy
.you can climb up
the hill to the Santuario di Santa Margherita. You can
drive up here too. I climbed and it just about killed me! However,
I was rewarded by stops at the mosaics (by Severini) depicting
the stations of the cross. Again, this climb is not for anyone
who is frail or who has heart problems! Inside it is very beautiful
and the tomb of St. Margaret (encased in glass) is at the altar
(rather unusual). Further on (up the hill) is the fortezza.
There are Etruscan tombs in the area and they are
well sign-posted. One that I visited is just south of town and
is called Pythagoras. Its a great example of an
Etruscan tomb and is reached by traversing a small hill and
passing by a few private homes/farms (fences and all). Dont
worry theyre used to seeing us tourists! In Camucia
and Il Sodo youll find more tombs. Market day
is Saturday in Cortona.
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