Tuscany: Castelnuovo di Garfagnano, Collodi & Pistoia

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Castelnuovo di Garfagnana is another charming town in Tuscany. Many things were destroyed here during World War II, but they have been restored and rebuilt. Castelnuovo is the main town in this part of Tuscany (not a lot of big towns in the area) and it is a great place to base out of. The Rocca/Estense Fortress is on the main square as is the duomo (16^th century).

Pistoia is a very neat town with a great historical center. Its roots are Roman. The town sits at the foot of the Apennine Mountains. I stay in the city center (historical area) as it suits what I’m looking for in a Tuscan town….The city is centered around the Piazza del Duomo. Here you’ll find the duomo/Cattedrale di San Zeno (13^th century) with its Romanesque façade (influenced by Pisa) and the Renaissance portal by Andrea della Robbia (Madonna and Child on the crescent of the portal). Inside you’ll find the Cappella di San Jacopo with the beautiful altarpiece (in silver) — this is widely considered a masterpiece in silverwork. The campanile (bell tower) of the duomo was at one time a watch tower for the town. The green and white, octagonal baptistry (14^th century) is across from the duomo and has some nice sculptures, but is of particular interest because of the dome which is done in brick. The Palazzo Pretorio was built in the 14^th century and is also on this square. The Palazzo del Commune (13^th century) houses the Museo Civico and has some good medieval and Renaissance art (paintings and sculptures). The Ospedale del Ceppo is famed for its terracotta façade (truly amazing). This work was done by Giovanni della Robbia in 1530 and depicts the Seven Works of Mercy and the Theological Virtues. The Chiesa di Sant’Andrea has a hexagonal pulpit by Giovanni Pisano depicting the life of Christ. If you have time, head to the Chiesa di San Giovanni Fuorcivitas (12^th century) with its striped exterior and Visitation by Luca della Robbia on the interior. As you wander the ancient streets you’ll be struck by the names of the streets — many indicate what type of work was done there in the very distant past (take note). Twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday) there’s a market in Pistoia.

Collodi is called the "town of Pinocchio" because Carlo Lorenzini aka: Carlo Collodi, wrote the fairy tale/fable Pinocchio. You just have to visit if you loved the book as a child….however, having said that, there’s more to the town than just Pinocchio…..this is a medieval village (at least 12^th century) that literally cascades down a hill. At the top of the hill: La Rocca/Castello Collodi and Chiesa di San Bartolomeo…..the town pours down the hill resting at the very beautiful Villa Garzoni. You can get lost in the beauty of the park, gardens, statues, ponds, paths — an evocative setting. Then there’s Pinocchio’s Park (Parco di Pinocchio) with its fantastical sculptures (really fine sculptures), mosaics and gardens on the Pescia River.