Emilia-Romagna: Ravenna


Forget the outskirts of town and head straight to Ravenna’s historic center — your main interest in this town will be the mosaics, but there are some other things worth seeing as well. The town center is a pedestrian zone (no cars). I always start at the lovely Piazza del Popolo (with a cup of coffee) just to get my bearings. The two columns that you see in front of the town hall (Palazzo Comunale) were erected by the Venetians in the 15th century. The next site of interest is the Basilica di San Vitale (built in 526 and consecrated in 547) and the beautiful Byzantine mosaics you’ll find inside. Go to the chancel and apse (they’re so bright and gorgeous). The church offers other beautiful things like carved columns, frescoes, an alabaster altar and marble throughout the building. You’ll be impressed. The Galla Placidia Mausoleo is behind San Vitale and also has some wonderful mosaics — the blue color found here is unbelievably beautiful. The Museo Nazionale is just to the left of San Vitale and has some very interesting collections. The Battistero Neoniano (Neoni Baptistry or Baptistry of the Orthodox — 5th century) is next to the duomo and was built upon ancient Roman baths. The mosaics in the dome (the oldest in Ravenna) represent the Baptism of Christ. The duomo (Sant’Orso) dates from the 18th century, although it is built upon the oldest church in Ravenna (from 396 and founded by St. Ursus). The round campanile dating from the 10th century is from the earlier church. The Arcivescovado (Archbishop’s Palace) and Museo Arcivescovile (Archbishop’s Museum) are just up from the duomo. The Sant’Andrea Chapel has some fabulous mosaics and the throne of Archbishop Maximian is a 6th century treasure because of the carving done in ivory. The Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo with another round campanile has 24 marble columns from Constantinople and lovely mosaics on the walls of the nave. The dome of the Battistero degli Ariani (Baptistry of the Arian’s — 6th century) is decorated with mosaics (depicting the Baptism of Christ). The Mausoleo di Teodorico (tomb of Theodoric) was built around 520 by Teodorico (himself) and is a two-storey building with a huge limestone block on top. It’s an eerie site. You should try to see the Basilica di Sant’Apollinaire in Classe. This Basilica is just south of Ravenna (5km). It stands alone (with it’s round campanile) in the open countryside. Inside there are 24 Byzantine marble columns and mosaics in the apse and on the triumphal arch from the 6th and 7th centuries. Saturday is Market day in Ravenna.

 

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